Great photos!
I got some Meisi M30, their 0.35mm waxed linen, and tried a couple lines of the three-in-one stitching.
My experience confirms that stacking stitches one on the next is far easier than trying to align new stitch lines over or under existing ones.
Meisi M30. OKA Diamond pricking irons, 3mm. OKA No. 1 awl.
For needles, it was certainly far easier threading CS Osborne 517-5 or 517-6s, the 21-gauge needles, than thinner 517-7s, which are 22 gauge. But the 7s were much easier to sew. It was easier to use the thinner needle points as picks to rearrange existing stitches in the holes, to make room for new stitches. I also had more success pushing the thinner needles through in the right position relative to existing stitches.
One trick I found very useful was to sew a stitch from one side, pull through far enough to form a visible loop, press that loop above or below existing stitches, depending on where I wanted it to lay, and then pull taught. The stitch would then lay down correctly, and even stay in position when repositioning stitches in the hole in prep for stitching back from the other side.
I tried black-white-black stripes, but suspect I’ll strongly prefer white-black-white.
Absolutely agree here. I often would hold my thumb over the hole while tensioning to force it to fall certain ways.
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Little easier to see with it lasted
Some color samples I am doing. Back chain stitch there for the counter line and some herringbone options for the topline
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Made some improvements with the herringbone so the double herringbone up the french seam splits off into the single herringbone that wraps around the quarters. Lots of pre-planning on hole placement to get it to split like this and then fall correctly in all the corners around the quarters
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Nice detail!
I was playing around with some skin stitching practice as a less bulky alternative to the french seam back seam. Ended up tucking a saddle stitch in really tight up against it to use to wither attach lining or aome thin reinforcement on the back side. Gives an interesting look (and would make for a nice based for some of the ladder embroidery stitches.
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Very cool. I’m glad to see you exploring this space the idea of decorating with embroidery somewhere other than the welt has been scarce in shoemaking and especially heritage styles. It’s a great blank canvas. I love love what Lisa does with applying cowboy top techniques to shoe panels and there’s a lot to explore in both those paces
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I started playing with some embroidery stitching for some floral elements
Been hand stitching some inlay pieces as well
Been trying to play with some ways to combine the two
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This is great!
Does this count as a distinctive hand stitch since you can’t actually see the stitch?
Skin stitched on the inside of the boot. Would love to figure out a good way to reinforce this seam without having a visible exterior stitch
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Skin-stitch in some beading?