DIY Wire Bristles

Inspired by this Instagram post by Sarah Guerin and getting down to my last two large wire bristles from @customboots, I decided to go ahead and get set up to make my own bent-wire bristles.

Here’s what I learned.

My Supplies

  • D’Addario PL013-5 pack of guitar strings 0.013"/0.33mm diameter, high-carbon steel
  • Osborne cobbler’s pincers as wire cutters
  • small tub of Nokorode paste flux from the plumbing section of ACE Hardware
  • Forney #61489 lead-free (tin, copper, and silver) solder
  • Weller D550PK soldering gun
    Note: The price on Weller’s own page for this is much higher than you’ll find online. Don’t pay that much. Or even use a soldering gun. See note below.
  • small scrap of 2x4 lumber as sacrificial work surface
  • refrigerator magnets to keep finished and unfinished bristles together
  • pliers for bending wire
  • ventilation for soldering fumes
  • relatively fine sandpaper or emery paper

There is nothing magical about any of these brands or specific choices. If you’re comfortable with leaded solder, that’s fine. Rosin-core leaded is way more available. Any soldering iron or gun capable of melting the solder you have is likely fine. Spooled wire would also be fine, and probably cost less per length, as would slightly different diameters. But I’d avoid galvanized or otherwise coated wires, and generally stick with plain steel, rather than stainless or another metal.

With guitar strings, make sure you’re getting a specialty pack that’s all plain-wire, unwound strings of the same diameter. Guitar strings are more commonly sold in sets with different diameters, some of which are wound, for each of the six strings of a guitar, low to high.

My Process

I’ll write this out as instructions, but don’t take my word as any kind of gospel truth. I’m sure this process can be improved, too, and I’d love to read messages about how.

Cut

Cut the guitar strings into segments, then stick them to one of your fridge magnets.

I copied the 11 centimeter finished length of the “large” wire bristles from @customboots, so my lengths of wire were 22cm each. I made smaller bristles from the leftover lengths from each guitar string.

Edit: With the benefit of later experience, I’d recommend cutting bristles longer, perhaps 6" bent from 12" lengths. I have larger hands, but even for those who don’t, it pays to have enough length to fill the whole closed palm of the hand, for pulling through.

It helps to hold the ends of the strings to be cut down somehow, so they don’t go skittering away when snapped off.

Bend

Bend the lengths roughly in half in your hands, to roughly 45-degree angles. You can do this a few segments at a time. Bring the ends together to find the rough middle on the other end, then crimp with your fingers. Just starting the bend is enough at this stage.

There’s no need to try to get the lengths bent exactly in half, either. You’re going to trim the tips in the end, anyway. That will take care of any length difference across sides.

Finish bending the wires by crimping them in the jaws of a set of pliers. Fit each side of wire into a notch in one of the jaws of the pliers, then slowly close the pliers, twisting the wire with your fingers to try to keep perpendicular to the jaws of the pliers.

This is a little fiddly and takes some decent eyesight. But I did find it getting easier as I went along.

Ideally, bend each bristle-to-be so that the tips run parallel and stay that way when you set it down. This is very hard to do. Second best is bending so that the ends cross near the tips, or closer to the tips than to the eye. You’ll get a chance to spread the ends apart so they’re parallel later.

Prep Station

It’s a lot easier to melt a puddle of solder and pull bristles through it than feed solder onto the bristles. Move the work—the bristles—not the tools.

Start your soldering gun or iron and get the tip hot enough to melt solder. Feed a good amount into the tip, holding it just above the work surface. Then set the solder down on your (sacrificial) work surface and put your gun or iron down.

Open your paste flux. Using a stick or an acid brush, make a little mound of paste within the container that sticks up a bit from the top of the container. You’re going to draw your bristles through that, too.

Set your second fridge magnet far enough away from your unfinished bristles so they don’t stick to each other if you bump them around.

Solder

For each bristle:

  • Pull the bristle off the magnet, grasping the loose ends with the fingers of your dominant hand.

  • Roll the wire in your hand so the ends run parallel, either touching or very close together, especially near the eye.

    This is your chance to correct any wires that bent too far earlier.

  • Slide the bristle over your mound of paste flux from near your fingers at the tips to about a centimeter from the bent end that will make the eye.

    You don’t need or want visible blobs of paste flux on your bristle. It’s fine if you get them—they’ll burn off and just make more smoke—but a light surface coating is enough to burn off the oxides and let your solder bond.

  • Pick up your soldering iron or gun with your non-dominant hand and melt the solder puddle.

  • Draw your bristle through the solder puddle, starting near your fingers and continuing to about a centimeter from the bend.

    You can do this relatively quickly. Smooth, continuous drawing motions tend to leave fewer solder blobs on the wires.

  • Blow fumes from the solder and flux toward your ventilation.

  • Set the bristle down and pick it up again, this time from the bent eye.

  • Run the bristle through the solder puddle again, melting any blobs you may have made on your first pass and continuing all the way to the tips.

  • Wave the bristle in the air to cool it.

  • Stick the bristle to the other fridge magnet.

Finish

Clip the tips of the bristles off cleanly. You can:

  • clip the ends of square, creating a blunt tip
  • clip the ends off at an angle, creating a blade-like angle
  • clip the ends off twice at opposite angles, creating a diamond-shaped point

Bend a rectangle of sandpaper or emery paper in half, like a patch of leather for burnishing threads. Hold the paper between the fingers of one hand and use the other hand to pull your bristles through it. Squeeze the abrasive only enough to make contact with the bristles. If you grab the bristles with the paper, you’ll likely bend them.

Sanding won’t remove large blobs of solder, but can nick off some small ones. It also polishes things smooth.

If your process goes like mine, you’ll have some ugly ones, some beautiful ones, and a whole bunch somewhere in between. If you find ones with large solder blobs, or large bridges of solder suspended between wire ends that spread far apart, you can always redo them by drawing again through the solder puddle.

Thanks

Big thanks to Sarah Guerin, who not only made the Instagram post showing all her supplies, but also answered an e-mail from me with the tip on dragging through the puddle.

Thanks also to Jeff Mandel for the tip on clipping twice to make points, rather than blunt tips.

1 Like

For those with Instagram, Sarah posted new footage of her making bristles for students in her forthcoming class:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DExtlWHRJwy/

A few further thoughts, from later experience:

It pays to bend the wires just right.

It’s very fiddly work, but the closer you can get the two legs of each bent wire to lay close to one another, in parallel, the better. This produces a thinner bristle overall, once soldered, and also reduces the potentially rough surface of solder to sandpaper smooth.

I find it helps to fix the loose legs in one bulldog clip and the bent eye in the other for soldering.

It pays to sand smooth.

Even if you’ve made a nice, thin bristle, make sure to take the time to rub it with a sandpaper patch. Every little bit helps to increase the chances you’ll be able to pull the bristles through without unwelcome resistance or damage to the other thread coming the other way through the hole.

Avoid breaks in the solder.

If you leave voids between the legs of the bend wires where solder doesn’t bridge them, and the bristle breaks off to the point that part becomes exposed, you’ll end up feeding through two loose legs that want to catch on things and pull apart.

Diamond tips have worked best for me.

I’ve had much better results feeding bristles through when clipped twice, once from each side, creating a diamond or arrowhead-like point. These seem to catch far less on the insides of holes.

I made some more of these, longer this time. Some new thoughts.

Finish by pulling through sandpaper.

I found it worked very well to loop a bit of thread through the eyes of newly made bristles, then pull them through a patch of sandpaper between my left thumb and forefinger.

Pulling, rather than sliding the sandpaper back and forth, abrades the surface without the risk of kinking the wire. It can put a subtle curve in the wires, overall. But that’s no issue.

Tack the tips together.

I found it helped to get more bristles where the legs of wire run parallel and close by first soldering just the very tips together. This makes it impossible for the legs of wire to cross at any point.

Experiment: Solder Pot

I happened on a very cheap solder pot marked model HT-B with a 2 inch diameter solder pot. Since the fiddliest part of making bristles with a soldering gun was holding the tines of each bristle closely together to draw through a puddle of melted solder, I thought it might be easier to melt solder in a small pot and dip or draw them through.

The pot certainly worked for tinning the tips of the bristles. If I set the tips of the tines together with a rubber-coated spring clip, I could hold the clip and dip just the tip of the new bristles into the puddle in the pot. However, even this small-size solder pot is too deep to really run the bristles through lengthwise. You’d have to fill the pot with a dangerous amount of solder.

The answer here might be to use a soldering gun, melt the solder on a metal dish of some kind, and use a band or clamp to hold the soldering gun’s trigger on. But that does seem dangerous. At a minimum, I’d want to firmly clamp or otherwise hold the soldering gun rigidly in place.

Experiment: Stainless Bristles

I tried making some bristles by twisting 0.3 mm stainless wire. At least where I’ve looked, stainless “spring wire” has been far easier to find in small quantities cheap than high-carbon steel.

I bent lengths of wire in half, put the bends around a hook, and used a thread winder—basically a mini egg-beater-style hand drill—to twist the tines. This worked, but results where really irregular. Unfortunately, even twisting the tines loosely creates bristles that are noticeably thicker and rougher than soldered ones. I am also concerned they might be weaker, since twisting already bends the wire so much. I also lost a fair number in the making when the wire snapped at the bend during twisting.

Overall, I don’t think I’ll try making twisted stainless bristles again.

I was able to finish up some more wire bristles during lunch break today. I was using lengths of the D’Addario PL013-5 again, which is .013" high-carbon steel wire. Lead-free solder. Soldering gun. Paste flux.

Tinning in Segments

The hard part for me to date has been getting the two tines of each bristle tinned so they make a nice, thin bristle overall. It can happen that the tines spread apart a bit as they’re tinned, leading to a wider bridge of solder from tine to the other, creating a bristle that’s more like a thin metal ribbon.

I had much better success with a three-step process:

  1. Tin just the tips together first, holding the tines very close to the tips.
  2. Tin the front half of the bristle, from the tip to midway, by holding the bristle a little behind the midpoint and pulling the bristle through the puddle from middle to tip.
  3. Tin the back half in a separate, final pass, holding by the bend.

The benefit here is that you an always hold the tines fairly close to the part of their length that you’re about to tin. That makes it easier to hold them very close together and keep them that way while drawing through.

Sanding it delicate.

I find my tinned bristles benefit from a quick sanding with fine paper. This knocks off any unwelcome blobs and makes the whole bristles shiny and slick.

I started sanding by just ripping off a patch of sandpaper and running it back and forth on bristles between my fingers. That works, but the bristles are so thin that I’d sometimes kink them while sending, putting in little bends that I could never really bend back straight.

Far better to hold the bristle down on some sacrificial surface, like a block of wood, and sand with the patch in one direction only, rather than back and forth. That actually tends to straighten the bristle under pressure. No bends.

It really needs to be carbon steel wire.

Just for fun, I tried a couple lengths of galvanized wire and stainless wire. I was pretty sure these wouldn’t take solder, even with a healthy brushing of flux. And I was right. Carbon steel is really the way to go.

This is a bit of a shame, since stainless “spring wire” is by the far the easiest for me to buy cheaply online and really thin galvanized for picture hanging is a stock item at all my local hardware stores. Carbon steel is available cheaply per foot as “music wire” from industrial supplies, but the quantities are larger.