Lengths
Stick Length
from the back of the heel to the front of the longest toe or toe box, flat along the ground plane
Tools: Size Stick, Brannock Device, Ritz Stick, Rule
Stick length is a quick and fairly reliable measurement to take, but can omit crucial information:
When used as the only measurement for shoe fitting, it says nothing about width, girth, instep height, or the relative length of the toes.
Measuring flat along the ground plane yields smaller figures as heel height increases.
Arch Length
from the back of the heel to the MTP joint of the big toe, along the ground plane
Two feet of the same stick length may vary substantially in the proportion of toe length to arch length.
Tools: Brannock Device
Toe Length
the length of a toe, often the longest toe, from joint to the tip of the toe along the ground plane
Ball Width
width of the widest part of the forefoot, along the ground plane
Tools: Brannock Device, Ritz Stick
Heights
Instep Height
height of the highest point on the instep, where it meets the ankle, from the ground plane
Malleolus Height
height of the widest protrusion of the medial or lateral malleolus bones of the ankles off the ground plane
Mallelous heights are useful to ensure that the toplines of shoes and low boots fall either comfortably below or above the ankle bones, avoiding chafing and irritation.
Note that the lateral malleolus stands higher than the medial.
Girths
Ball Girths
The balls of the feet are measured in a couple of ways, none of which are fully standardized, very accurate, or reliably precise. Any two fitters or makers may measure in slightly different ways.
Angled Ball Girth
tape measurement around the ball passing over the innermost and outermost MTP joints
Since the outside joint lies closer to the heel than the inside joint, the tape lies at an angle relative to the long axis of the foot or the main axis of the last.
Straight Ball Girth
tape measurement around the ball passing over the innermost MTP joint but around the outside of the foot straight across from the innermost MTP joint, perpendicular to the long axis of the foot
Arch Girth
tape measurement around the arch of the foot
Instep Girth
tape measurement around the instep of the foot, often at a higher point than where arch girth is measured
How far between the ball and heel this measurement is taken varies between makers. Some purposefully feel for the intermediate and lateral cuneiform bones and measure over them.
Video: Bill Bird following the groove between first and second metatarsals up to find the anterior “lip” of the second cuneiform bone for instep girth measurement
Instep girths can be important for ensuring intended spacing of facings for laced shoes. If a laced shoe is too wide around the arch, the facings may touch before the instep is held securely. If the shoe is too narrow around the arch, the facings may have to spread quite far apart in order to fit the foot.
Bell Girth
tape measurement around the bell line, a nominal line around the top of a cowboy boot at the height of the top of concave curve of the front panel, where the tongue of the vamp meets the top
Calf Girths
tape measurement around the calf of the leg, often taken at stated heights up from the ground plane, such as 5 inches, 7 inches, and so on
Calf girths may also be measured at particular anatomical points, such as the widest point of the calf. The height up from the ground plane is then noted along with the girth.
Calf girth measurements help ensure that boot shafts don’t constrict the legs. For laced boots, they also help achieve the intended spacing between facings when tied.
Long Heel
tape measurement around the bottom, back point of heel and a point on the instep over the arch, often the point where a maker measures arch girth, such as over the intermediate and lateral cuneiform bones
Video: Bill Bird using the second cuneiform bone to measure long heel
Long heel measurements can be important for locating fastenings such as shoe lacing.
Short Heel
tape measurement around the bottom, back point of the heel and the top of the instep
Short heel measurement is particularly important for slip-on shoes, such as western boots, that rely on close fitting vamps without laces to hold the feet in place, but must be wide enough at the “pass” to allow the feet to enter.
Short heel measurements change as the ankle bends. Measurements with pointed toe read shorter than with the ankle in walking position or bent upward. Paul Bond measurement video