That is mostly what he meant, I have edited the quoted post to indicate this.
That is the reason I left so much in this boot. Normally I would trim it right to the outside edge of the holdfast and my bottom fill would cover the holdfast and cut edge of the vamp completely up to the inner edge of the welt. As in the boot shown in post 9. He wasn’t talking about leaving a bunch under there because of course we don’t want a big lump under the edges of the boot or to have an excess of fill in it.
Before inseaming he only trims enough to expose the inside edge of the holdfast afterwards he trims it as stated.
The bottom fill will not look quite as nice as some people like it this way but it lends to a very stout boot that still has plenty of flexibility at the joints as it should.
Unfortunately, due to some technical errors, we lost some posts to this topic that people had made.
Fortunately, I have the forum to send me e-mails of everybody’s posts, so I can piece together what was lost, apart from my own replies:
@g_horses shared:
Speaking of favorite videos..
Not sure if this video is already on the forum but new here and didn’t see it. This guy also has a welting video, maybe saw on Reddit that he is an outworker for some west end firms, certainly experienced to say the least. Of course I had to get the shoemakercraft feather knife after attempting to make my own by grinding an old chisel. In retrospect I could have just stuck with the homemade bc despite it being a useful tool with a built in guide, it is still takes a lot of earned skill to use properly. I did have an old sumi ink brush laying around and highly recommend, if for the swag alone
I mentioned that the video was new to me, and looked like a really practiced hand.
I agreed that it still takes some practice to learn to use a feather plough, but already found it really pays to make sure it’s sharp.
@Kfd518 chimed in:
I use mine now for every channel I cut. As you said sharp takes the day though. With time you learn to know when it’s level.
When using one it also pays to practice cutting the vertical in one sweep without stopping and starting the knife. Then opening it well. This gives the fence something to ride on and not get stuck in a false groove or channel. The better and quicker you get, the less you will need to clean up the feather though.
@Kfd518 later came in with:
While I’m back in here…
I have settled on the cut feather with groove as diagramed above. Using a king 3.5” and the dimensions listed from lee’s post earlier except at the toe I widen the toe channel to just over .25” just to tuck it a bit more. I do still leave the welt sticking out at the toe but it makes for a better looking toe this way. I have done 4 pairs this way and so far am pretty pleased with the results.
It has made for nearly perfect pre holing and very easy inseaming with nearly everything coming together perfect.
Even figured out how to sew the waist and seat
The one thing I still can’t bring myself to do is put a tack through the vamp into the feather channel though I’m sure it would make line up even easier.
Thanks everybody for bearing with me. I’m real disappointed the computer gremlins showed up right on a day when we greeting new folks and having good conversation!
