how do you all make test shoes / fitters for a new last? Do you basically just make an actual shoe using cheap leather, or do you have other, even cheaper methods?
1 Like
Dunno the best way but here’s what I do. I tape the whole last and make a 3 part pattern and insole pattern. I’ve played with liners and stiffeners i haven’t settled on one yet but last time I used like a 5 oz veg alone and it worked alright. I also liked a thin upper and liners and a toe and heel puff. Toe puff helpful if you are using lighter or more flexible leather to warn you about toe impingement. heel and side stiffeners probably worth doing for fitters for low shoes to show how the topline will sit and heel cup shape will contribute to fit but I’ve only made fitters for boots. The nice thing about the 3 panel is you can cut uppers and liner the same shape (and flip the liner for the back part rough side in) and sew together seam out very quick on a flatbed. Don’t have to build in any seam allowance because it’ll all mold to the last and any shortfall comes out of the lasting allowance. Economy Veg is nice to wet last because it gives you some good stretch while wet lasting and holds the shape of the last well when it dries and is usually stiff enough not to lie to you about fit. Cement construction is plenty strong for a fitter - cement the upper to a thin insole, cement in a leather shank for a low heel or real shank for a higher one, cement on an outsole (I don’t use real sole bend for this just thicker economy leather). Then from the instep down to a little lower than the ball, mark out lace holes at your major measuring points (eg ball, waist, low mid and high instep) with medial and lateral holes at a fixed distance apart like 1cm. cut out the center seam and cut a little T at the bottom to free the fake facings to come together. I’ve tried wood and leather for heels just trying to find what’s fastest, as well as just telling someone to stand on the edge of a book of the right height 
. Then when they lace up the shoe to their own idea of a comfortable tightness I can measure the distance between lacing holes and see how much I need to adjust each measurement. And of course check things like toe crowding etc. although I just make my topline a little above the counter point in the back and at the middle instep in the front (points where boots lift off the instep and heel) and a freehand sweep between, you could certainly use your final topline if it’s a low shoe. The advantage of this approach is a really quick pattern and assembly while giving info about last fit, but it’s not the same as showing someone what the final thing looks like or how it wears and walks, for which you’d really need to just make the shoe (can still be cemented).
Also this last time I ran a stitch around the topline just to keep it from stretching.
2 Likes
Out of curiosity, why 3 piece instead of 2 piece for the pattern?
1 Like
I was copying a fitter from an old boot and last maker Carl Lichte Maybe I’ll try that next time. My guess is if you are doing no heel stiffener it’s fine. And toe box - well I have done liner and toe stiffener by zig zagging the closure but haven’t tried a stiffener with a combined liner and upper. Maybe I’d just prelast the puff and glue it to the insole and add some Elmer’s before pulling the upper over. Honestly though I liked the midweight veg alone though.
These are Lichte’s below he used a wood heel with a leather toplift
1 Like
I’ve been enjoying doing glass slippers with carboard insoles.
Reminds me of a spider wrapping it’s prey in silk.
