This is a “wiki post”. Any forum member can edit. Please feel free to add your own tips, or make corrections!
Pierce the awl through pads of sole leather to stack up a depth stop to avoid piercing too far into the last, or into a last plate.
Many makers peg just slightly into the bottom of the last, at least were there isn’t any last plate. This requires a peg float or other tool to rasp or cut down the points of the pegs where they poke out above the insole.
Use pegs that are slightly longer than the holes being made.
Wet the bottom leather with a brush before piercing and let it soak in.
Lubricate the awl before piercing each hole. Some use beeswax, others paraffin, others soap.
Pierce far enough from the featherline so pegs won’t be seen from the side of the finished shoe.
Makers differ on whether or not to paste or glue pegs. Many find they aren’t necessary, even for heavily worn cowboy boots. Others prefer a small amount of paste.
Ideally, drive each peg by tapping in place, hitting once to set to the angle of the hole, then again to drive it completely home. If the peg is slightly longer than the hole, the top will break a bit. This is fine. Pare or rasp it off.
This is from the same manufacturer as some of the Chinese tools I posted about before. On Taobao it sells for 10 dollar but considering the shipping cost I think the Aliexpress posting is fairly priced. This reminded me that I had seen other kinds of rasp with a similar shape as the ones use for wooden pegs. I have found them by searching by Riffler rasp.
This posting is expensive because it is hand stitched but there are cheaper ones available online.
Gav Nicola also sells peg rasps for a decent price. I think I paid 30 pounds for mine.
I finally put this to the test on these kangaroo boots. Angle on the handle isn’t perfect, but it got the job about 90% done. Well worth the price of admission.