A while back, Jeff Mandel convinced me to join his hunt for information on a geometric system for creating last shapes variously referred to as “AK/WMS”, “AKA64”, and similar. There are citations and mentions in various more or less helpful academic papers on footwear, and even a few diagrams and how-tos of the 2D insole shape procedure in books like American Last Making and Wade Motawi’s Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design. But not much more than that.
The bits and pieces suggest a system by these names came out of some German lastmaking company in the late 20th century, likely Fagus. There are also hints that it was originally based on a large-scale anthropometric study, possibly beginning with children’s feet and expanding to adults’ from there. Jeff seems to believe it’s become more or less the de facto standard for procedurally generating last forms, not just in Germany but among Chinese and other mass-production last companies, as well.
A number of folks have heard some combination of “AK”, “AKA64”, “WMS”, and the like, and associate it with a geometric method for lasts. But nobody I’ve been able to ask, even those with long experience in the lastmaking business, seem to know what those letters ever stood for. Nobody has a primary source pointing back to an originator, either.
If indeed the system did arise in Germany, figuring out what the acronyms stood for could be useful in tracking down more sources. I’ve been doing a lot of translating German-language shoemaking books and papers lately. I wouldn’t be surprised if there are a few more German-language PDFs lurking out there online, which I just don’t know the right search terms to find.
Would much appreciate any further tips!
