Winding Fancy Outseam Cords

I’m really into decorative hand stitches, and have seen a lot of makers using neat multi-strand twisted cords, especially on Norwegian, Goiser, other styles with inseams visible on the outside or threads braided into the tops of the outseams.

First Try: 3D Printed

I built a drill-powered, 3D-printed cord winder from these freely available models some time ago, but had trouble getting started with it. I used screw-in hooks as cord mounting points as suggested, but had trouble getting thread to stay fastened securely enough to pull taught and keep cords from getting tangled in each other. That said, I’ve seen photos online of very nice results from this winder in particular. That’s why I built one.


You can put any old hex-shaped drill bit into the hex-shaped hole at the back. To twist each individual cord, hold the outer circumference of the tool with your hand and run the drill. To countertwist the cords together, as well, release the tool and let the whole thing spin when the drill runs.

Second Try: LACIS Winder

More recently, I finally stopped by LACIS, a fiber-arts store in nearby Berkeley, and discovered they’ve long had purpose-built, battery-powered cord winders made and imported for sale. They currently run about $30. The listing in their online store is “Cord Maker 2-Spindle Cord & Fringe Replaceable Head”.




The design is definitely light-plastic-gizmo. It’s a somewhat flimsy feeling contraption. But rather well designed, especially the neat spring-loaded hooks for attaching cords and the two-position switch for twisting cords (1) and countertwisting them together (2). I finally gave it a try this evening, and got up and running pretty much immediately making samples.




These are all three-cord threads. The tool has attachment points for four, but to do less, you can just leave one or more empty.

Style-wise, my takeaway so far is that the effect isn’t really noticeable with thinner threads—Maine 0.020" or 0.030"—especially in the same color. On the other extreme, three cords of 0.050" produces a very, very chunky thread that looks neat, but is probably too much for any design I can think of. Three cords of 0.040" is still a lot of thread, but probably a neat option for robust boots and very robust shoes.

The ability to candy-cane whatever colors I want opens up some possibilities.

Upshot

I don’t usually go for power tools. This is currently the only one involved in my shoemaking, unless you count electric lights or a window A/C unit. But I’d definitely recommend the LACIS for anyone looking to get started quickly for $30.

1 Like

This is cool! I have seen some very fancy storm welting that looked like 3 braided cords and assumed it was a different sewing technique. On a different but related note, did you see the braiding on the upper stitching that some folks in the world championships did? Been meaning to try it, but I’m not sure what the weave pattern would be exactly.

I can’t tell for sure, but I think you might be referring to the technique where one saddle stitch line is done through the upper, and then another saddle stitch line is woven through the outer loops of the first line.

I’ve taken to calling this “stitch in stitch” in my notes, because there are so many different and overloaded names for it. There are a few different versions of it.

Ok I found the 2 different things I was referring to: the one I saw someone do on a storm welt is apparently only 2 threads and it’s called the Norvegese, I believe it’s the second “stitch in stitch” in your notes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MB8YPgFiCyU
(my brain desperately wants to mix that word with Bolognese and add an extra n at the end)
And the braiding 2 threads into an existing single machine stitch was something Ken Hishinuma did this past year’s competition: World Championships of Shoemaking 2024 – All competition shoes pt.1 - Shoegazing.com
Sorry that neither of them actually involve braiding threads like you did and were more like free association :sweat_smile:

I believe those are actually the same stitch, just with very different sized threads and for different purposes. As I recall, Ken used a sewing machine without thread to pierce the holes in his upper, then stitched by hand.

No need to apologize! All good conversation is welcome, and sewing terminology is a mess.

I dunno if ken did it this way, but i have seen A video Of somebody pausing the post bed machine after each stitch and laying a braid under it for the needle to jump over in the next stitch

1 Like

Also dunno if you want another name for the wiki entry, but Gitty Duncan (lives near you actually I think, she goes to that same sewing supply place in Berkely anyway) calls hers a Goiser stitch
https://www.instagram.com/p/DEtJ_GYykQg/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

1 Like

The above, but also bristles are for beginners

1 Like

Gitty and I are shoe friends! Tom Wandall introduced us.

Gitty’s the one who finally got me off my butt to LACIS, after having it on my list for years. Really cool shop. Good people working there.

1 Like