I wouldn’t be so hard on yourself!
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I have both sizes. I tend to prefer the longer ones when I do anything moccasin, as it lessens any chance of having to start a new thread. I’ve purchased from Lisa a few times now, she’s been such a useful resource.
And that’s good to know on the Ritza. I really couldn’t think of a reason why it would be frowned upon in cordwaining circles, but I just didn’t know enough. I have tried Maine Thread’s version of it, and I still prefer Tiger. MT’s version is a bit bulkier of a thread, so the 1mm Tiger has an easier time going through a needle eye that the 1mm MT struggles at.
That’s very kind of you, and it is much appreciated. I’ve been on Reddit plenty, but have never even heard of Crispin Colloquy.
Okay interesting, good to know. I think I saw her video of using the plow on the feather side. Another possible tool to have to buy. Hahaha
I’m sure I can practice and get good with a knife. I did see quick improvement from the very first one I tried, and then the second one. I mostly just brushed up on the blog post from Arno Shoes on carving. And then using a proper tapered end should hopefully help not bust out the bottom of the holdfast.
Check me on this logic though. The holdfast should basically look like a short but wide trapezoid, with the bottom being wider than the top, for structural stability. I know the outer hole should come out toward the middle of the side of the holdfast. I was inserting my awl at the bottom of the inner, sort of intending to make a shallow arcing motion, as the awl is shaped to do.
Does that sound basically correct? I’m just trying to catch if I missed anything else with my holdfast issues.
Holdfast carving differs widely between makers. I have notes on a few variations:
1 Like
Conceptually it’s just - take a bite of insole, take a bite of upper, take a bite of welt and cinch them all together. The bigger the bite of insole the more it’ll resist pulling out. The more consistent the width, direction, distance from the edge, and spacing of the bites, the more consistent the external appearance and also more durable because of the even distribution of force across multiple stitches. There are lots of systems to achieve that consistency including the common one of digging away insole on either side of a little plateau of holdfast. This presents consistent faces for consistent angle and depth of entry and exit and a smooth curve to the stitch line, addressing the depth, width, and distance from the edge consistency problems of eyeballing each stitch. Also it makes a little inside recess to bury the stitches and minimize wear, and an outside recess that does the same as well as angle the welt up and pull it flush to the insole and upper to the external appearance. A million variations on how you do that but same principles and they all seem to work for people who do the same thing every time for years. Trapezoids, squares, inside grooves and outside bevels, flaps you fold up and glue to eachother, or just passing the awl into and out of an uncut insole (the latter usually without a welt), they can all work if you practice them, holdfasts are just tools to create consistency
2 Likes
I pretty much just do it like a V. I’ve thought about doing it like the top half of a K but it’s never seemed like it would make that much difference so it’s not something I obsess about. I just make the groove and move on.
2 Likes
Thanks for sharing! I’m sorry I missed your demo at the event.
Thanks! And howdy in England! I’d love to go be a fly on the wall at that independent shoemaker’s conference some year, the talks always sound incredible, and from such knowledgeable people
1 Like
Okay cool, thank you for the info guys. I think I will continue trying with knives, practicing on some scrap first. Conceptually, it all seems relatively straight forward. But the actual practice of doing it can be a little less than. Haha
1 Like
That’s a real solid little moccasin stand. I may have to grab one at some point, even if I don’t really have a need for a new one.
1 Like
Tom does solid work for sure
2 Likes