Figured I would start a new thread for my next project. Since the last one started with the intent of being chukkaish but turned into a full on derby boot, I am planning on actually doing a chukka this time.
There’s an easter egg in my photos of the last project… the backdrop the boots are sitting on is a hide of CF Stead Repello in midnight. I had that sitting here for the next project.
The main area I want to focus on this time around is better execution of the sole. Planning to do the full 360 norvegese I was going to do last time, with the stitches properly nesting, and actually do a natural finish on the midsole. I also want to keep the sole stack up thinner, so thinking 5/7 oz horse butt with the grain side facing up and a full dr sole sole instead of a half sole.
For the boot itself, I am thinking skeleton lining, unstructured toe and a thinner heel counter. Still haven’t decided if I am going to an external heel pocket or an internal counter. Probably will do an internal counter.
Well, I think I made it about 24 hours before convincing myself to wait to design a new last to do a chukka and instead use the same basic pattern as the last boot. Basically, take the opportunity to further refine the design ideas from the last one before moving on to something new.
Also working on a custom stitching chisel that will do offset double stitch rows to give really clean and even double stitching rows. Hoping to get them on the mill this weekend.
It’s the same basic pattern as my previous boots, but with a backstay instead of a french seam, a little curve added to the topline, the herringbone stitching simplified, and the counter pocket line pulled all the way up to the vamp with it defining that character line rather than it going all the way down go the sole.
This should let the counter pocket line wrap around the back and let me stitch the backstay on before doing the lining (which is retained by that counter pocket line).
Suede is a gigantic pain to mark things out on. I am using a white thermal pen for marking things out, which works ok, but often takes multiple light passes with the pen.
One nice thing you can do is run a heated creaser over to give a really crisp line.
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I keep debating if I want to continue further down the tongue with it or carry the motif out onto the vamp.
Realistically, anything else I add to the tongue will get completely lost once everything is laced up. This is enough to peak out above the laces because of the tongue height
