Uppers are done and ready to go. Have the insoles wrapped and forming to the lasts. Probably pre-last this weekend, although with this suede, i don’t know there’s much point to prelasting
1 Like
They look real clean!
I’ll be interested to see how the “bugs” right below the facing gaps will look.
I think half the reason I am considering pre-lasting is just to see what they look like with some shape to them to get an idea of things like the bugs
I’d just go ahead and make them regardless.
Judging by the photos, they will be subtle as it is. Wear may fade the topstitching into the suede in time, as well.
I will make em either way, I am just eager to see it all mocked up sooner than waiting to actually get things lasted.
1 Like
Insoles shaped and groove cut for 360 Norvegese. I am running the groove 8mm from the edge of the insole, but I did pull the insole walls in at a taper under the last more so than last time. Hoping that helps reduce some visual bulk.
I spent the money on Baker insoles this time rather than the Panhandle ones I used last time. A lot more expensive, but so much nicer to work with. Worth every penny.
2 Likes
I’ve enjoyed Baker insole, too, but at $40, I resolved to figuring out how to work sole bend belly.
These insoles look a lot less shaggy than the Baker I had. Did you scrape off a bunch of loose grain before carving?
Yah, I shaved them down. They were super easy to shave down.
The panhandle insoles I got were also super shaggy but they were a nightmare to get clean. All these took were a few swipes with my skiving knife and it came clean.
La Querce tannery had some really flexible insoles on display at bootcamp. I am curious to get a pair of them to try
1 Like
Hadn’t heard of La Querce! I’ve just added to the wiki.
I also liked the insoles they had on display at boot camp. I asked if they would sell me some but they were down to 1 pair and they wanted to keep it for display. They were very kind and let me have a pair of their ‘ing’ leather panels. It’s a little less soft than bakers but much better than panhandle insoles. I measured it at 6.25 mm vs 5.5 mm for bakers. They said they distribute through Justin Blair but I don’t see any insole leather in their catalog.
1 Like
Man, i couldn’t get them to cough up any samples despite a few visits.
Franklin leather also carries their stuff, but don’t see the flex insoles there either. Probably worth reaching out to Justin Blair to see if they can order non-listed productd.
2 Likes
Hadn’t heard of Justin Blair. Added to wiki!
1 Like
It looks like they may now have the Flex stuff available.
2 Likes
Pre-last is looking good. Test sample hiding in there for some stitching for the next project as well.
2 Likes
Moving slow on getting these lasted up, but was taking some photos of my other boots for thunderdome so snapped a few with better lighting.
1 Like
Very nice!
Did the real lasting today.
I used some of Maverick’s 2oz budget goat lining on these because it’s what I had laying around. I would highly advise anyone reading this not to do that.
Had all kinds of issues with it tearing. Even had it split at the last feather edge and rip at some of the stitches.
I am going to continue forward with the build for practice sake, but not sure if I want to waste a good outsole on them. I don’t know that I trust the lining to not fall apart on me.
There’s no rule I’m aware of against gluing little patches of the same leather over the back of any tears. You just want to make sure you skive edges, and maybe also split down if you can, so there’s no bump for the foot to feel inside the shoe.
There’s no rule I’m aware of against gluing little patches of the same leather over the back of any tears. You just want to make sure you skive edges, and maybe also split down if you can, so there’s no bump for the foot to feel inside the shoe.
I suppose you could also substitute a thin piece of strong synthetic fabric, like nylon.
I ended up making sure I had good glue coverage all around to the outer layer of leather, which should at least stabilize it locally. Probably would have been worth adding some reinforcing tape over it too.
The bigger issue is it makes me really wonder about the longer term durability of the liner. My guess is it will start breaking down sooner than later.
Oh well, still good practice. I already have some natural horween aspen double horsefront en route for lining the next (several) pair.
1 Like