Boot #2: an actual chukka. OK maybe not a chukka

One of the things I wanted to try on these is to do a stitchdown-based construction without the visual bulk in the soles. The info I have seen on norvegese builds usually suggests a vertical sidewall on the insole, which I am sure helps make the chain stitch pop, but it seemed like one could really use the side stitching to pull the upper in really tight on a stitchdown to get closer to the silhouette of hand-welting.

When I cut the insoles, I was pretty aggressive with how much I chamfered under the last.

Seems to be working pretty well.

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For your insole prep, did you do anything after trimming with a knife? I’ve seen in videos sometimes they go over the edge with glass or a rasp.

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I went over it with some sand paper to even out and then ran a bone folder over it, although that probably wasn’t really necessary

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Leather shank in and pegged and cork leveled upfront. I will run some pegs through the midsole into the shank as well to box it completely. Did the same on my last pair and I have been happy with it this far.

Haven’t decided if I want to do some cork around thr shank, kinda like a pseudo rand to level it off a bit more or not.

Don’t think it’s an issue, but I bet you could extend the shank further forward.

The cork overlays the end of the shank by a bit, so it is a bit longer than it looks. I feather it down as it approaches the front. Still probably could have gone a little longer, but it’s deceptive in the picture.

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Midsole in place and about ready to start stitching. I pegged through the midsole into the shank in-between the previously placed pegs with every other one at opposite angles

Nice work! Ask what you used for the midsole?

It’s horween russet horsebutt strips. My usual go-to for things like counters since it’s strong and cheap. Not particularly thick for a midsole, but I am trying to go a lot lower profile on this boot compared to the last where I used a sole bend for the midsole.

If horsebutt’s the cheap option, maybe we should talk about your leather supply! Are you tapped into a local shoe repair supplier?

Usually works out to <$5 per sq ft for good quality veg tan. I haven’t seen anything significantly cheaper than that.

I have been trying to get an account set up with Franklin, but haven’t had any luck.

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