Starteded working on my first pair of boots, so figured I would update here as I go to chronicle progress.
Using a Podohub (a really unfortunate business name) whistler boot last in 11.5 EE with an 8mm shortened toe box.
Used the available upper patterns that can be purchased from Podohub at the time of ordering for $5 whole dollars to layout the mean forme.
Started to layout a 4.5" tall boot
Made some quick patterns and whipped up a test piece using a really cheap roll of pleather off Amazon.
Take away so far is I like the overall proportions but my tongue needs to grow about 15 mm. I also like the exposed back stitch rather than using the big back stay I drew up originally. I think i am going to re-work the design to lose the back stay and move the vamp curve a good bit forward.
What print settings did you use for the Podohub last? did you get the thimble from them too? I’m eager to hear how these will hold up! I have to trim some off the middle hinge piece to make it fit and try assembling mine. Yours looks like the slide way? How’s using that feel?
The exposed contrast zigzag reminds me of the back lace boots from Ann Demeulemeester…are you going to do the same on the lining?
I ordered the last printed rather than the stl. Figured for the first go an using one of their lasts, I would just one stop shop it. I am happy with it so far. If all goes well, I will probably order the actual software from 3dshoemaker.
I am working on a test coupon right now for the top line stitching to continue the theme.
I don’t know that there would be a lot of reason to do the decorative stitch on the lining since it is a lot more hidden, but it wouldn’t be hard to do.
Interesting. Do you happen to have a link to the product you bought?
I’ve been using foam shelf liner from the hardware store. I’ve definitely learned a lot and avoided many mistakes by prototyping with something a bit more like leather than paper. But I’d never considered going all the way to faux leather. I didn’t realize how inexpensive it can be.
Here’s what I bought. Can probably get 3 full pattern sets out of a $10 roll
It may be out of date, but the Podohub guy posted a video sometime back with discussion of his infill approach: Physical 3D Printed Shoe Lasts for Sale on 3DShoemaker | shoemaking.wiki
Interesting.
I’m seeing enough of a quarter curve that I’d probably call that a Derby if I didn’t know anything about it. But I seem to remember Florsheim in particular has done a bunch of “chukka” boots with more shoe-like quarters.
I can’t tell just from your drawing, but if you’re setting the entry point relatively high up the instep, like a typical chukka, make sure you set the quarter tabs down far enough that it’s easy to get the feet in!
Definitely following more derby-ish design parameters. It probably doesn’t fall into the actual definition of a chukka because of how many eyelets, where the opening is, etc, but at a lowish ankle boot with a sorta chukka-ish silhouette, who knows what to call it. Chukkerby? Derba? Doesn’t quite roll off the tongue.
Drawing is a bit misleading proportion wise because it has the lasting allowance already drawn in and the toe straightened for mirroring the pattern. Probably work sketching it up without those to get the right feeling.
Starting round two of test fit with the pattern updates
Contemplating if I want to shorten the top line a half inch or so, basically removing the upper eyelet.
I’d check where the topline crosses the ankle. In my experience, it’s no having it fun rubbing over the malleoli.
Looking good! I’d definitely consider some extra stay stitches inside the corner of the tab.
It’ll get a good bit more stitching on the real thing.
If i could have got away with just gluing/double sided taping for the mock up, i would have, but nothing wants to stick to this pleather.
I bet this would:
I will physically measure my ankle height tonight, but with it trimmed down, I am sitting at about a 3.75-4" shaft height, which is fairly normal chukka territory from what I can tell, so I am hopefull it will land correctly.
I wish. That’s what I am currently using. Worked well enough to hold things in place while I did the stitching, but falls apart under any tension iver thr last.
Apparently my shaft height is higher than I thought. Measured my ankle at just around 3.75", so thought I was out of luck, until I measured the mock up and it’s sitting at more like 4.75" to the top line where i have it folded over for the low height.
Failed successfully at getting the height I wanted?
