Mill Blade Handle as Depth Stop

[kemitchell]

@thenewreligion shared this photo of using a mill blade handle as a depth stop for safe outsole trimming with a pointed blade, rather than a lip knife:

I’d shared some notes on using mill blades for shoemaking before, but as bare blades, without springing for one of the handles the vendors sell:

Cheaper Shoemaking Knives in the USA

I’ve enjoyed using two inexpensive “mill knife blades” from Hyde Tools of Southbridge, Massachusetts for bootmaking: Model 62480, 6×¾″, 15 Gauge, $8.30 Model 62180, 9×¾″, 15 Gauge, $10.04 Both are flat bars of high-carbon steel sharpened with two flat bevels at one end, like TINA’s 270G or Barsnley’s double-bevel paring knives. They are noticeably narrower, but also far less expensive here in the United States. The shorter, 6″ version works well in my relatively large, thin hands without any…

Excited about the handle-as-depth-stop concept, and still frustrated trying to make and keep lip knives sharp, I went online and found one as cheap as I could. It so happened the seller, insulationtools.com, also had fairly good deals on some of the blades, so I put in for a curved blade, too. Here they are on an inch grid:

A few notes, by way of a first impression:

This handle is definitely industrial-grade, finish-wise. It doesn’t bother me so much, and certainly won’t as I get using. But the surface finish on the metal is rough, the fit of the handle scales is sloppy, and the scales themselves have no discernible finish at all.

I see this rather as an opportunity to do my preferred linseed-and-paste-wax coating on it. But it might disappoint some other buyers, especially those familiar with some of the really bling, “artisan”-made leather tools in vogue these days.

In hindsight, I probably should have ordered a longer curved blade. I was excited to get what seemed like a good deal on one of the high-speed-steel blades, which cost a bit more than the baseline high-carbon blades. But I should have thought more about the 6½″ length of the number 71140, which is just enough to fill the whole handle. The 9″ long blades will fill the handle with room to spare for sharpening down.

Then again, those who don’t like extra blade bar sticking out the back might find the 71140 just right.

I’ll probably measure the threads of the setscrew and try and replace with a thumbscrew. I’ve done this with some other tools, especially fixed-blade Stanley knives. Thumbscrews can get in the way with some grips, but make it a lot easier to adjust. The pop-up-D-ring style of thumbscrew on Orcon’s knife handles are the best I’ve seen, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen them for sale as separate hardware.

[thenewreligion]

Looks promising! I like the hooked blade profile. Ive been using the stanley disposable ones in a foldable box cutter handle for ripping heavy stock, but i should probably upgrade to a sharpenable reusable one at some point, assuming i can figure out a good system to sharpen it

[kemitchell]

@thenewreligion

assuming i can figure out a good system to sharpen it

Yeah, I may not be any better off than with the old lip knife.

Thinking I’ll try some ceramic rods with rounded edges next. I have some around from an old kit.