I’m very happy to announce that thanks to Becky Geller of the Haverhill Public Library in Haverhill, Massachusetts and Digital Commonwealth, two Northampton handbooks of lastmaking have been scanned, digitized, and made free for download via the Internet Archive:
-
Albert E. Tebbutt’s Last Making and Last Measurements, Second Edition
Contents
- Objects of the Pamphlet
- Lasts
- Woods Employed in Last-making
- English Beech
- French Wood, Hornbeam
- English Maple, Sycamore, North American Maple
- Persimmon, Alder, Willow
- Structure of Wood
- Shrinkage of Wood
- Bark Bottoms and Bark Sides
- Cutting up of Wood
- Treatment of Lasts
- Tools Employed in Last-making
- Wedge, Hammer, Bench, etc.
- Bench-knife, Vice, Axe, Rasps
- Saws, Scrapers
- Sand-paper, Chalk, etc.
- Making of Lasts
- Sawing, Chopping, Knifing
- Rasping, Scraping, Finishing
- Making of Models by Hand
- Lasts for Welted Work
- Finishing Lasts
- Hinged Finishing Last
- Easy-Exit Lasts
- Treatment of Flaws, etc.
- Machinery for Last-making
- Early Form of English Last-making Machine
- Preparation of Model and Block
- Working of Machine
- American Last-making Machine
- Directions for Setting-up and Using
- Casting of Iron Lasts
- Model
- Moulding
- Iron Blocks, Blacking
- Shapes of Lasts
- Camper’s Theories
- Meyer’s System
- Meyer’s Line
- Anatomical or Hygienic Lasts
- Hannibal’s Method
- Dr. Ellis’s Method
- Pitch and Spring of Lasts
- Slipper Lasts
- Shoe Lasts
- Evening and Court Shoe Lasts
- Heavy Boot Lasts
- Riding Boot Lasts
-
Walter J. Lewis’ Measurement of the Human Foot and Last Fitting, Third Edition
Contents
Measurement of the Foot
- Importance of the Subject
- Measuring Apparatus
- The Sizestick
- Tape Measure
- Method of Measurement
- Draft of Foot
- Profile of Foot
- Position of Measurements
- Location Tape
- Heel Measure
- Matters requiring Special Attention
- Types of Feet
- Measurer’s Duties
- Form of Order
- Special Methods of Measurement, &c.
- The Podameter
- The Pedistat
- Impressions of Feet
Last Fitting
- Fittings
- Sew-round Lasts
- Foot Deformities
- Allowances
- Why Allowances are made
- Selection of proper lasts
- Height of Heel
- Use of the Draft
- Pitch and Spring
- Boot and Shoe Lasts
- Slipper Lasts, &c.
- Running over in Boots
- Court and Dress Shoes
- Special Deformities
- Raised Toes
- Bunions
- Flat Feet
- Valgus Pad
- Weak Ankle
- Club Foot
- Conclusion
Appendix
- Standard Measurements
- Comparison of Sizesticks
- Girth Measurements
- Fittings
I reached out to the Haverhill Library in April of this year after scouring various library catalogs for any signs of books on lastmaking. I can’t remember where exactly I first saw a reference to Tebbutt’s book, but the only I record I could find of any copy in the United States was in Haverhill’s collection.
Of course, Haverhill and Massachusetts more generally have an incredible history of shoemaking and lastmaking. I’m very glad to see this part of that heritage made available for all those working to keep the craft alive.
I also want to take this chance to remember the work of the late D.W. Frommer II, who made available digitized copies of a number of very helpful shoemaking manuals through the Honorable Cordwainers’ Company. I learned loads from Golding and Thornton and also D.W.'s own book, Western Packers: An American Hybrid, which Randee Frommer was able to provide earlier this year. Others have been fortunate enough to carry on D.W.'s legacy of making and teaching. I’d like to think that in our own very small way, Becky, Digital Commonwealth, Internet Archive, and I are continuing his legacy of saving and sharing such written sources on the craft as are left to us.