I haven’t seen anyone else do that.
I wonder if there’s some way we could send them a message to ask. The video description mentions the store, but it seems to be a chain with many locations:
Oh interesting, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone doing that before. I will have to take a look. From what I’ve seen, they’re either dry inserted or glued in.
Yeah, it feels like it’s largely a muscle memory development thing. Maybe just more of a finesse based movement?
Oh nice, I use a HorseShoe French Hammer. It’s been damned nice for all cordwaining hammering stuff. I think I just need to learn how to properly hit the pegs in with this hammer. Though I could always use an excuse for another tool… Haha
I have been doing the light taps though, just seems way too easy to make a mistake with harder blows. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
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Yah, the angle of impact seems to be a major factor. So dialing that in makes a big difference
Agreed. The mechanics of all the little things with welted styles of footwear feel way harder to grasp than moccasin style footwear.
I picked up a trim nail punch a couple months back, to see if it might be a cheat code for driving pegs straight every time:
Haven’t had a chance to try it yet. Current pair’s on a fully plated last, so I’m doing my best to remember it’s nails this time.
Ooh, that’s an interesting idea. Is it something like this?
It looks similar, but it’s really hard to tell length and thickness from the photos online.
I posted photos and the model number in the topic I linked above.
I dunno if you’re as neurotic as me but setting up you phone on slow mo to watch a few blows is very informative
Pegging is like golf (except I don’t hate it 
). Just some of the factors are the angle of the peg, distance from the peg, height of the peg relative to your waist, angle of the hammer face relative to the shaft, shape of the face, where on the face you strike (especially with a round face). When you watch the actual pros like Lisa work, the height of the last, pegging on the far side (turning the last to peg the other side rather than trying to hit pegs on the near side at a very different angle), and the distance to the last are all the same every time. A stroke of the hammer has a still shoulder and locked wrist and is almost all elbow motion, and short stroke so the hammer ends up where it started.
Personally I like an angled neck and the last at just below elbow level cause it feels more natural to me, and a flatter face cause the exact location on the face is less critical (see pics). But a round face with good aim allows you to strike at a greater range of angles without as much arm movement and the smaller striking area protects the sole around the peg from hammer marks. If you did use a straight-neck hammer it helps to set the last lower so your forearm angles the face down for you. I think it matters less how you do those things as it does that you’re aware they all affect the strike angle and keep as many as you can consistent until you find a rhythm.
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Oh I am probably as neurotic as you, I record myself to see form and diagnose issues when lifting or climbing, so it’s definitely a useful activity! Do you think the hammer shape matters? I could see an argument for a Crispin style hammer being more conducive to the control needed for pegging, but I am unsure.
Yes. I have found only one of my hammers will reliably let me drive pegs. I am curious to give a Crispin #2 a try though.
Ah dangit. Makes sense though. I want to get a new hammer, because tools. But I don’t know that I can justify it. I’m sure I can make mine work.
Yeah, I think they are basically the same tool. Definitely a neat way to go.
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Lots of used Crispin no 2s on ebay for <$30 (not that I have been shopping or anything)
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Not specifically endorsing any hammers, its just the one I like cause it’s more forgiving and because it belonged to a legendary boot maker
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One more piece of hammer advice, take the time to mirror polish the face and peen of a broad round faced French hammer like this, for doing things like shaping the toe box after pulling down the upper toe, or rubbing the upper smooth at the feather. It lets you tap, beat, and massage things into shape without marring the leather. Just don’t hit nails with it. Similarly if you need to smash outsoles into submission especially in the waist while glueing, there are purpose-built beating hammers with curved oval faces and soft curves to minimize marring, or any heavy hammer can do the job with a leather face glued on. I prefer the leather face cause often the iron can transfer to the wet veg tan and stain it.
I do need to get a new hammer soon…
I’ve been looking for a beating hammer, but haven’t had any luck finding one.
I am dang envious of that collection of hammers. Not even because I need it, that’s just a neat bunch of tools. Where’s MC though?
That’s all some great advice though, thank you. My french does seem to have a pretty dang smooth face, but definitely not mirror and I do use it for nails. Haven’t noticed really any issue with that damaging or imprinting on leather. Maybe I just need to pay more attention.
I had wondered about just slapping a piece of veg tan on a hammer face. Are there any downsides to doing something like that?
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I’m sure it wouldn’t ding up like that bison, but on pullup or delicate finishes it can really show
That’s what I did. Used cement to attach veg tan to the face for whapping a freshly glued sole (I don’t have a press). After I took that picture it reminded me to go round the corners a bit because they had been marking the leather a bit. And if you hit pegs or nails, the dings in the leather hammer face start to transfer to the sole leather when you hit it.
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Okay yeah, that makes sense. Have you found that simply hammering the sole is sufficient for bonding?