Found another maker’s YouTube channel:
Based in Korea, but many techniques look similar to Japanese makers’ I’ve seen.
Nice footage of handwelt insole carving.
Glad to see John Valevro encouraging hand binding:
I particularly enjoyed him using small flat-head screwdrivers as awls. I ended up with something pretty similar: a jeweler’s pin vise to hold sewing machine needles, though I mostly just use diamond stitching awls. The screwdrivers will be cheaper and probably easier to buy.
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William Efe Laborde making opera pumps for Kirby Allison:
I had never heard of this construction technique until seeing this series.
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Thanks for posting! I’ve learned a lot from some of Kirby’s videos, but I can’t bring myself to subscribe to the whole channel.
Here’s hoping this new series is long on detailed footage and short on “tradition” ads.
Excellent close-up footage of “pump stitch” at the very end of the video.
BOB henderson laser engraving eyelets:
Occasionally I search random shoe making terms on Youtube to find rare videos that the algorithm doesn’t prioritize. Today the search was “west end shoemaker outworker” and it resulted in me finding the YouTube channel of William Powell, a West End closer. He has 2 videos on making a Chelsea boot pattern. It’s really cool to see his process and workshop.
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Nice find! I subscribed and added to my queue.
Yeah super fun! I was laughing out loud. I added a couple encouraging comments I hope he keeps it up
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Old video of the line at Cheaney’s working:
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this week’s cordwaining obsession: New England Moccassin boots.
Not Moc-toe. I’m talking the real moccassin construction, lasted “upside down” with the upper wrapping all the way under the foot.
I kind of want to try this for my next pair, since I’m a New Englander. Gotta keep the tradition alive. Can’t let the Pacific Northwest hog all the “regional boot tradition” glory.
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I believe one of our members has done some true-moccasin work, referencing Russell quite a bit.
@thenewreligion, do you remember who that was? I wish I could, so I could @-mention them.
@x24leathers is making some great Russell style mocs
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That’s the one! Great info and pics in his intro, even:
Thanks, that’s very kind of you to say! I’m planning on trying to replicate Russell’s inner vamp construction for my next pair. I’ve never been able to find the “silicone tanned/impregnated” leather they use, but I did get some Horween Dover that I am hoping will fit the bill well enough.
If you are interested, feel free to check out my Instagram (it’s my main repository/progress journal), or feel free to point any questions my way. I will do my best to answer in a reasonable manner!
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I’ll check out your instagram. I’m sure i’ll have questions if and when I try it myself.
I have a pair of semi-vintage ll-bean boots that are made in the same style and I love them. They were a limited edition “Signature field boot” I got back in 2010 at their factory store on clearance for like $60. Someone had returned them and they had just been discontinued so the ended up in the clearance bin. Apparently an old design they dug out of the archives and did a limited run for a year or two. I’ve never seen them in the catalog since then. 8" tall, Dark licorice green with silver lace hooks. 8" My “gateway boot”.
I peeled up the sock liner and sure enough, there was that midline stitch to close up the almond shaped cutout right in the middle, and the vamp wrapped all the way underneath. But you can see where the cut corners to keep costs low. made in El Salvador. rubber midsole instead of leather. I’d love to make an upgraded version.
They still look pretty good for 16 year old boots that get a lot of use. They’re looking a little worn after 3 resolings. Some of the stitching along the toe is wearing thin, so eventually they’ll either need a complete overhaul or maybe I’ll just dissect them and use them as the pattern.
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Nice! That looks like a solid find. As long as the construction is good, I see no reason why El Salvador would be a cut corner, same with the rubber midsole. I tend to prefer rubber midsoles for ease of soling and resoling. Significantly less need to stitch an outsole on when the cemented materials and similar. Even when Russell does a leather midsole, they also do a rubber midsole below it to just glue the outsole on.
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I agree. quality seems great, as proven by their durability for over a decade. And they’re super comfortable and flexible. Maybe “cut corners” wasn’t the right word.
At first I thought maybe they had been made by a maine boot maker like Russel or Rancourt, but the price was way too low for that, and then I noticed the writing inside.
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Here’s a great video that shows Norwegian storm welting, with a decorative braided / chain stitch.
