I have move onto some iterations using some cheap leather I have laying around. Slowly fine tuning the pattern, crimp boards, etc.
Getting a little better at this crimping thing:
I think I want to adjust the pattern so the shaft lifts off the instep a little sooner rather than the second dip. That will pull in the back line a little too which I think will proportion nicer.
Is there a noticeable bend in the last where the cone meets the forepart?
Not really. I have been fighting a little big of looseness there when lasting that shows up louder in photos.
In a little different light, this gives a better idea of the instep geometry from the last. Definitely more anatomical than some are
Updated pattern with it lifting off the instep a little sooner. Basically brings the front line forward a cm or so.
I made a few tweaks to the last to try to help smooth that spot on the vamp out a little. Had a bigger dip than I wanted.
Should be good to glue up this prototype though and do a test fit.
Glued up and drying on the updated last. Seems to have solved the little bit of looseness I was getting at the instep bend.
Glued it all together, tossed a couple layers of horsebutt strip on the bottom to make a sole, and short of a heel, it is ready to test fit.
Will this have the traditional buckle and strap across the top of the foot?
Yah, it will get the strap across the top of the foot and the calf. Just not needed for the initial fitter prototype since I want to make sure the fit is right before adding things in…
That and I haven’t made the buckles yet
Needed a heel on the fitter, so figured it was a good excuse to give making a stacked heel a try. Don’t think I went long enough with it, but otherwise it worked out well, other than the one spot where I kissed the upper with the sander.
Congrats on first attempt!
Looks a little short, front to back. Or is that my eyes deceiving me, since there isn’t a sole?
No, you’re right. It is definitely a little short. It’s sitting right at 1/4 SLL. Really needs another 8-10mm in length. When I sketched the line out on the sole, 1/4sll + 10 felt really long, so against my better judgement, I pulled it back. Knew it was too short after the 2nd layer, but for the purpose of the fitter, it should be fine.
Fitter got mailed off to the owner-to-be for this pair and I did a VTC test fit. Was really happy to see that the fit was perfect. Heel popped in, retained while walking around, and came off without the use of heavy machinery. I was nervous about it before sending, but it really was great.
So now, on to the real pair. Finished printing up the final lasts, made some little drying stands for them to let the insoles rest, and putting the final details on the pattern.
Definitely going to let these baker insoles dry for a few days before final trimming. Have made that mistake one too many times
Nice! You are helping motivate me to get my 3D printer printing.
It really does make things awfully convenient
what software are you using to design the lasts?
Rhino3d with the 3dshoemaker plugin to parameterize things
